In this master class, we will continue the topic of modeling unusual sleeves based on Burda patterns. And we will create two more types of sleeves with which you can transform any simple dress or blouse.
In this case, we will use completely sophisticated modeling techniques.
We simulate an unusual sleeve based on the Burda pattern
In this and previous sleeve modeling workshops, we selected model 124 from Burda 11/2013 as the basis:
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You can also use other Burda patterns with the usual set-in sleeve of a small volume.
Before proceeding with the simulation, make sure that the sleeve has a small fit on the okat. Landing should be about 1.5 cm.
How to change the sleeves
You will need:
- paper for drawing (whatman paper, graph paper, tracing paper);
- a pencil;
- ruler;
- measuring tape;
- paper scissors;
- glue or adhesive tape;
- fabric for the manufacture of the layout;
- tailor pins, scissors for fabric, thread, needle.
Modeling straight fold sleeves
Prepare the pattern of the sleeve, if necessary, increase or decrease the fit of the okat of the sleeve. Transfer the pattern to a piece of paper and cut it out. Move all the tags.
Place a sheet of paper or breadboard fabric under the pattern.
Also, on the sleeve pattern, draw a straight line connecting the lower points of the armhole - direct AO.
Mark the highest point of the okat with the letter B. From this point, lower the perpendicular, dividing the sleeve into two parts - a segment of the BS.
Divide the front half of the sleeve in half along the straight line AO. In my case, the width of the front half along the AO line is 16 cm, so I measure 8 cm from the straight BS.
Measure out the same amount towards the back half.
Through the obtained points we draw perpendiculars to the line AO - D and E.
We cut the pattern along the lines D and E.
It is also necessary to measure and record the lengths of the segments DB and BE, most likely, they will be equal.
Spread the resulting parts along the AO line by 6 cm and fix it on breadboard fabric or paper.
You can push the parts to another distance - from 1 to 10 cm. It depends on how deep the crease you have in mind.
My fold in finished form will be 3 cm, so I spread it 6 cm.
Extend all lines D and E upwards by a distance equal to the segments DB and BE.
In my case, I will extend by 10.5 cm.
Connect the lines with short lines at the top.
Mark the center of each crease.
Assembly of the layout of the sleeve
Before you cut the sleeve from the main fabric, it is better to make sure that it will turn out exactly as it was intended, and make a layout.
Transfer the sleeve pattern to the breadboard fabric with 1 cm allowances and cut.
Lay the folds of the sleeve and iron them to the points where the fold "meets" with the line of okat (points D and E in the drawing).
Sew folds to the dash line.
Folds can not be built up. It will look good in sleeves with cuffs, where the position of the folds will be fixed from the bottom.
Unfold the free ends of the folds and fold them with their faces.
Sew a line, iron the allowances, and iron the crease again.
Thus, one fold was obtained, passing from the bottom of the sleeve up and down again.
Align the seam with the highest point of the sleeve (point B in the drawing) and pin or pin.
Lay the line.
It remains to grind the front and back of the sleeve and iron the allowances.
The sleeve is ready to be sewn in. To check the fit, the model can be poked or swept into the bodice of the product.
Such a sleeve model will look harmoniously in a jacket or sheath dress in a strict business style. To create them, it is better to use medium-density fabrics that hold shape. If you plan to sew a thing on a lining, then the inside fold can be additionally duplicated, and the sleeve lining can be cut out on the base pattern of the sleeve.
The crease depth can be changed depending on your idea.
For example, the photo shows a sleeve with a fold of 5 cm wide. It will help to create an actual image with voluminous shoulders.
Following this instruction, you can create a sleeve with several folds. For example, such. It will suit a product made of light fabric, such as a blouse.
And so the pattern of this sleeve looks.
Modeling a disappearing fold sleeve
We will slightly modify the previously obtained pattern to get a more modest sleeve with a slightly emphasized shoulder.
Take the previously obtained template blank.
I transferred straight fold sleeves to the patterns. Fold depth 4 cm.
Place a piece of paper or breadboard fabric under the piece.
Cut the pattern in the center of each crease.
Fix the central part of the pattern on paper (fabric).
“Close” the folds below, connecting the extreme lower points of each fold, while the top folds remain “expanded”, as shown in the photo.
Lock the parts in this position.
Circle the resulting pattern.
Assembly of the layout of the sleeve
Transfer the sleeve pattern to the breadboard fabric with 1 cm allowances and cut.
Fold the loose ends of the folds.
Lay the line. The line will have a kink in the middle of the fold, so in this place you need to cut an allowance with a corner, as shown in the photo.
Iron allowances.
And lay a crease in the area of the rounded sleeves.
Align the seam with the highest point of the sleeve and pin or pin.
Pay attention to how all the lines "meet" at the line of okat sleeves.
Lay the line.
It remains to grind the front and back of the sleeve and iron the allowances.
The sleeve is ready to be sewn in. To check the fit, the model can be inserted into the bodice of the product.
Types of sleeves: understand the terminology
Magnificent accents: how to make unusual puff sleeves
Modeling a lowered bodice based on a Burda pattern
The author of the master class and photo: Daria Tabatchikova
By education, Daria is a PR specialist and economist, but several years ago she devoted herself entirely to her favorite business - sewing.
She studied sewing from magazines, books and using the Internet, there are also sewing courses in the arsenal, but Daria considers herself self-taught. She loves to study specialized sewing literature from different years and countries, and then put her knowledge into practice.
At the end of 2017, Daria became the winner of the festive contest from BurdaStyle.ru.
She leads her Instagram page and VKontakte group.
Material prepared by Julia Dekanova
