How to sew a plastron

Plastron is called an insert with rounded edges, which gives blouses and dresses a nostalgic touch. We will show you how to properly complete this interesting detail.

Dress with Plastron, model 109 from Burda 09 2010

Training
Reshoot the details of the pattern 21−26 for the dress from the sheet of patterns and cut them out of the fabric with allowances for seams and hem of the bottom, as explained in the instructions for the model.
Tip: to facilitate the cutting of details of the front plastron, re-cut the part of the pattern from the sheet of patterns twice and glue the parts along the line of the middle of the front.
Contours of parts and marking, except for the directional arrow of the shared thread, transfer to the wrong side of the parts of the cut using a smooth, without teeth, carbon wheels (Prym) and carbon paper burda (see the exact instructions on the paper packaging). Mark the middle line on the back and details of the plastron of the back, making small notches of approx. 5 mm in the areas of allowances. Iron a small piece of non-woven G 785 with a size of approx. To the front at the lower end of the seam for attaching the plastron from the wrong side. 2 x 2 cm (see Figure 5) to avoid tearing the seam. Stitch the shoulder sections on the dress (see instructions).

Start off the plastron ...

Fold the details of the front plastron with the front sides and chip along the line of the middle of the front (fold) from the transverse mark to the bottom. Beat (seePhoto).

Fold the details of the front plastron, respectively, along the seam or along the line of the middle of the front with the wrong side to the wrong side. Iron the seam and the edges of the front cut. Shoulder sections of the plastron front parts lying on top, turn down. Place the shoulder sections of the plastron parts lying on the bottom on one part of the backrest plastron with the front side to the front side, chop off the shoulder sections. Get off (see photo). Flatten the seam allowances.

Place the second part of the backrest plastron under the shoulder sections of the other parts of the plastron with the front side facing the front side, chop off the shoulder sections. Get off (see photo).
Iron the seam allowances. Fold back the plastron parts with the wrong sides. Sweep the plastron parts along the neck and stitch sections.
... Now stitch to the dress
First pin half the plastron to the dress from the mid-front line to the mid-back line with the front side to the front side. Sew it down. At the beginning and end of the seam, follow the stitching (see photo).

Notch the seam allowance of the front seam along the mid-front line close to the last stitch (see photo).

Then pin the second half of the plastron to the dress from the midline to the midline of the back. Stitch (see photo).
Take plastron sharpening seam allowances together, overcast and iron on dress.
Next, sew the dress as described in the instructions.